Filling Grooves And Painting Over Paneling: A Guide

Wood paneling was popular in the 1970s, but some people now want flat, timeless walls. Filling in the grooves in wood paneling and painting over it is an easy process that doesn't require any special skills. There are various ways to fill in the grooves, including using a product that is similar to latex caulk, buying battens (thin strips of wood moulding), removing the paneling and reattaching it with the reverse side showing, or using wood putty. After filling in the grooves, you can sand the paneling, prime it, and then paint it.

Characteristics and their values

Use spackle or joint compound to fill in the grooves

If you want to fill in the grooves in your wood paneling, you can use spackle or joint compound. Spackle is a type of compound that dries hard, making it ideal for filling in grooves. However, it can be more expensive and difficult to sand down. Joint compound, on the other hand, is easier to work with and is less expensive, but it may require multiple coats and take a long time to dry.

Before applying spackle or joint compound, it is recommended to prime the paneling with a shellac-based stain-blocking primer or an oil-based primer. This will ensure that the compound adheres properly and create a smooth, dull surface that is free of imperfections. After priming, use a putty knife to fill the grooves with spackle or joint compound, removing any excess.

Once the compound is applied, let it dry completely. For deeper grooves, you may need to apply additional coats of the compound and let it dry between coats. After the compound is dry, use 100-grit sandpaper to sand the paneling until the compound is smooth and flush with the surface. Wipe away any sanding dust with a damp cloth.

If you want to create a drywall look, pay special attention to the sanding process to ensure a smooth finish. After sanding, you may need to prime the entire wall again to ensure a consistent paint finish. Finally, apply two coats of your chosen wall paint using a roller to add texture and achieve the desired look.

Sand the paneling for a smooth, dull surface

Sanding the paneling is a crucial step in achieving a smooth, dull surface that is free of imperfections and ready for painting. Here is a step-by-step guide to help you through the process:

Start by choosing the right sandpaper grit for the job. For light sanding to dull the surface of the paneling, use sandpaper in the 180- to 220-grit range. This will create a slightly rough texture without removing the varnish or gloss. If you need to sand joint compound or filler, use 100-grit sandpaper to smooth out the compound and make it flush with the paneling.

Before you begin sanding, ensure you have the proper safety gear, especially if you are working indoors. Wear a mask and goggles to protect yourself from the dust created during sanding. If you are working in an enclosed space, consider using a vacuum with a brush attachment to minimize the spread of dust.

Now, you can begin the sanding process. Sand the paneling lightly and evenly, following the direction of the wood grain. You are aiming to scuff the surface, not remove the finish completely. This will create a slightly rough texture that will help the paint adhere better. If you are sanding a large area, consider using a sanding pole to reach higher areas and reduce fatigue. Take breaks and shake out your arms to prevent muscle strain.

Once you have finished sanding, it is important to clean the surface thoroughly. Use a vacuum, preferably with a brush attachment, to remove all the sanding dust and debris from the paneling. You can also use a damp cloth to wipe down the surface and ensure no dust remains. A clean surface is essential for the paint to adhere properly.

After sanding and cleaning, inspect the surface for any remaining imperfections. If there are still some visible flaws, you may need to apply another coat of filler or joint compound and repeat the sanding process. It is important to be patient and take the time to achieve a smooth, dull surface before moving on to the next steps of priming and painting.

By following these steps, you will be able to effectively sand the paneling, creating the desired smooth and dull surface that is ready for the subsequent stages of your painting project.

Prime the paneling for better paint adhesion

Filling in the grooves of wood panelling and painting over it is a simple way to change the look of a room. To ensure that the paint adheres well to the surface, priming the panelling is essential.

Priming prepares the wood for paint, helping the colour go on evenly and stick to the wood. The best primer for wood panelling depends on the variety of panelling. For laminate or veneer panelling, a primer specifically engineered to bond with glossy surfaces, such as Insl-X® Stix® Primer, will give the best results. For hardwood panelling, a primer that provides better stain blocking, such as Insl-X® Aqua Lock® Plus or Fresh Start® High-Hiding Primer, is recommended.

If you are filling in the grooves with spackling or joint compound, it is important to prime the panelling first to ensure the best adhesion. A light sanding before priming will create a smooth, dull surface that is free of imperfections and rough enough for the paint to adhere to. When priming, use a foam sponge roller and a brush, or just a brush alone, to apply a thin coat of primer to all of the panelling. Make sure to cover the entire surface, including any trim, and remove any drips. Allow the primer to dry for a full 24 hours before painting over it.

After the primer, your wall may look finished, but a second coat will ensure the best coverage and improve its durability. A second coat of primer helps to conceal the differences between the spackling compound and the panel surfaces, cover stains or knots in the panelling, and provide proper adhesion for your paint top coat.

Apply paint with a brush or roller

Painting wood paneling is a simple way to change the look of a room. The key to success is using the right primer, paint, tools, and materials for the job. Before you begin, find the right paint for your project. Because wall paneling may get scratched and bumped, interior paint for trim, cabinets, and doors is a good pick. Trim paint is durable and holds up to wear and tear over time. Moisture is a concern if the paneling is in the bathroom, near a sink or dishwasher, or in a humid spot. Glossy paints usually cause water to roll off, so they’re a good choice in these areas.

If the paneling is still too glossy after cleaning, you may need to dull the surface a bit with light sanding to make sure the paint has a texture it can adhere to. Take extra care if you’re dealing with veneer. Sanding can ruin the thin outer layer, exposing the fiberboard underneath. Whenever you’re removing an old surface through sanding, it’s important to protect yourself from potentially dangerous dust with a mask and goggles. Consider your desired result: Do you want a smooth wall, or would you like to keep the grooved look of the paneling?

If you want to keep the grooves, skip to the painting step. If you want your painted paneling to have a smooth surface, you’ll need to fill in the grooves. You can use spackling compound, joint compound, or wood putty. Allow the filler to dry, and then sand the paneling until the filler is smooth and flush with the paneling. Wipe any sanding dust off with a damp cloth. Prime the paneling with a shellac-based stain-blocking primer.

You can use a brush or a roller to apply paint, as long as you smooth out any drips as you go. Let the first coat of paint dry before you apply a second coat. Begin painting the paneling at the top of the wall and work your way down. Some sources recommend using a brush vertically down the grooves and then a roller across the field. Others recommend using a roller with a thick nap for the entire wall. For exterior walls, one source recommends using a brush for most exterior surfaces, especially siding and trim. Rollers are recommended for large, flat surfaces like drywall and plywood paneling. Another source recommends using a roller for reasonably smooth surfaces. Yet another source recommends using a brush for old wood windows that are larger than doors.

Consider keeping the grooves for a trendy look

Wood paneling was extremely popular in the 1950s to 1970s, and the trend has returned. However, some people prefer flat, timeless walls. If you're someone who wants to keep the grooves in your paneling, there are a few things to consider.

Firstly, you can save time and money by keeping the grooves. Filling in the grooves can be a lot of work, and there's always the risk of the filler cracking and falling out. By keeping the grooves, you avoid the hassle of dealing with problems affecting the wall surface beneath the paneling.

Secondly, you can create a unique, trendy look by keeping the grooves. One option is to remove the paneling and reattach it with the reverse side showing, creating a textured, imperfect surface that costs little more than your time. Another option is to nail thin strips of wood moulding, or battens, vertically over the grooves and paint them a different colour to highlight them, giving your wall a completely different look.

If you do decide to keep the grooves, you'll still need to prep the surface properly. This includes removing any contaminants and residue with a degreasing cleaner, and lightly sanding the paneling to dull the gloss and create a rough surface for the paint to adhere to. You'll then need to prime the paneling, at least in the areas you plan to fill with spackling compound or caulk, to ensure the best adhesion.

Finally, when choosing a paint colour, consider the space and the mood you want to create, as well as any unique architecture or features in the room. You can also choose between latex paints, which give a glossy or shiny look, and other types of paint for a more matte finish.

Frequently asked questions