
Painting WW2 Italian uniforms can be a challenging task due to the variety of tones and hues present in the uniforms, as well as the effects of sun bleaching and dye variations. To achieve an accurate and aesthetically pleasing representation, one must carefully consider the colours, painting techniques, and attention to detail. The Italian uniform during World War II was typically a green-grey colour, known as Grigio Verde, and painters often need to mix their own colours to achieve the desired shade. This includes mixing paints like German Grey, Evergreen Fog, German Uniform, and Oxford Blue to create the right base colour and highlights. The process involves layering, thinning paints, and highlighting to create a worn and bleached look.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Base colour | Grigio Verde |
| Base colour alternatives | Green-grey, German Fieldgrey WWII with Green Grey |
| Base colour ratio | German Grey:Evergreen Fog (1:2) |
| Alternative base colour ratio | German Grey:Evergreen Fog (1:1) |
| Highlight colour | Evergreen Fog |
| Shadow colour | German Grey |
| Light mix | German Uniform:Oxford Blue (1:1) |
| Fatigue shade | Italian Fatigue Shade |
| Fatigue shade ratio | German Grey:German Uniform (4:1) |
| Fatigue light | German Uniform |
| Primer | Black |
| Chevrons | Gold/yellow wool, red wool |
| Collar patch | Distinct for each infantry division |
| Unit insignia | Stenciled on the front of the helmet |
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What You'll Learn

Mixing paints for Italian Fatigue Shade and Italian Fatigue Light
To begin painting Italian WW2 winter uniforms, you will need to mix up two paints: Italian Fatigue Shade and Italian Fatigue Light.
Mixing Paints for Italian Fatigue Shade
For the Italian Fatigue Shade, you will need to mix Vallejo German Grey and German Uniform paint in a 4:1 ratio. This means four parts German Grey to one part German Uniform. This mixture will serve as the base coat for your Italian WW2 winter uniforms.
Mixing Paints for Italian Fatigue Light
For the Italian Fatigue Light, you will need to mix German Uniform and Oxford Blue paint in a 1:1 ratio. This means equal parts of both colours. This lighter shade will be integral to the painting process, as it will be used extensively.
It is recommended to mix larger batches of these custom paints to have them readily available, especially when painting multiple miniatures. This approach avoids the need to mix new batches each time you paint and ensures consistency throughout your collection of Italian infantry miniatures.
Once you have your Italian Fatigue Shade and Italian Fatigue Light mixtures ready, you can start painting your miniatures. Begin by applying the Italian Fatigue Shade as the base coat to all the fatigues, including the cap or headgear of your soldier model.
After the base coat has dried, you can continue by layering a 1:1 mix of Italian Fatigue Shade and Italian Fatigue Light on the model, excluding the folds, creases, and shaded areas. This step helps define the areas you will be working on next.
Now, you can introduce some colour by layering pure Italian Fatigue Light across the model. Avoid painting it in the starker shadows and small recesses, such as the pants and cap, as these areas provide opportunities to create softer shades. Painting uniforms is an excellent way to practice fabric painting techniques, thinning paints to the right consistency, and brush techniques.
For the final steps, you can add highlights to your miniature. Mix Italian Fatigue Light with blue grey pale paint in a 2:1 ratio (two drops of Italian Fatigue Light to one drop of blue grey pale) and apply this mixture across the lighter areas of the uniform. For a more worn-out uniform appearance, consider creating a scratchy effect with the highlights.
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Priming the model in black
When painting WW2 Italian uniforms, the first step is to prime the model in black. The specific type of black primer is up to the painter, but one option is to use Vallejo's spray primer. This will provide a base for the subsequent layers of paint.
It is important to select the right primer for your project. Spray primers are often used for miniature models, as they provide even coverage and can be applied quickly and easily. However, brush-on primers are also available and may be more suitable for larger models or for those who prefer a more precise application method.
Once the primer is selected, the model should be thoroughly cleaned and prepared for painting. This includes removing any mold lines or flash from the casting process and ensuring that the surface is smooth and free of debris. It is also important to ensure that the model is dry and free of any oils or contaminants that may affect the adhesion of the primer.
When applying the black primer, it is crucial to follow the manufacturer's instructions for the specific product being used. Spray primers typically require a well-ventilated area and a consistent back-and-forth motion to ensure even coverage. Multiple thin coats are generally preferable to a single thick coat, as this reduces the risk of dripping or pooling.
After the black primer has been applied, it is important to allow it to dry completely before proceeding to the next step. The drying time may vary depending on the product and environmental conditions, so it is always best to refer to the manufacturer's recommendations. Once the primer is dry, the model is ready for the base coat and subsequent layers of paint that will bring the Italian uniform to life.
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Applying colour to the model
Painting models of Italian WW2 winter uniforms can be a challenging task due to the variety of tones and shades that were present in the actual uniforms. Here is a detailed guide on applying colour to your model:
Preparing the Paints
Before you begin painting, it is essential to mix the correct colours. For the Italian uniform, you will need to create two mixes. Firstly, for the Italian Fatigue Shade, mix Vallejo German Grey with German Uniform in a 4:1 ratio. Secondly, for the Italian Fatigue Light, mix German Uniform and Oxford Blue in a 1:1 ratio. These mixes will serve as the base colours for your model.
Priming the Model
Start by priming the entire model with a black primer. This will provide a uniform base for the subsequent paint layers. Choose a black primer that suits your preferences and the specific material of your model.
Base Coating
Once the primer is dry, apply a base coat of German Grey from Vallejo to the entire uniform. This will create a consistent foundation for the other colours and help them blend seamlessly.
Layering Italian Light Mix
Now, you can begin adding colour. Layer the Italian Light mix (German Uniform and Oxford Blue) across the model, being careful to avoid the starker shadows and recesses, especially on the pants and cap. This layer will add depth and dimension to the uniform.
Highlighting and Shading
To create highlights and define the edges of the uniform, thin down Evergreen Fog paint and apply it to the most raised and sharp edges. Then, heavily dilute the Evergreen Fog even further and begin glazing towards those highlights, ensuring a clear transition. If you're not confident with glazing, you can add a small amount of Evergreen Fog to the previous German Grey and Italian Light mix and apply it to the raised surfaces, followed by a final highlight of pure Evergreen Fog.
Final Details
For an authentic representation, pay attention to the smaller details. Define the striking edges, such as the knees, and line the piping and seams of the uniform. Additionally, consider the specific unit insignia and collar patches of each infantry division, as these can vary. Refer to reference images and guides to ensure accuracy in these final touches.
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Painting belts and webbing
Firstly, it is important to choose the right colours. For Italian WW2 uniforms, light reddish and dark brown leathers are typically used for belts and webbing. You can also use a German Camo Black Brown Basecoat as a starting point, which can help to reinforce the separation of materials on your miniature.
Next, you will need to mix your paints. A ratio of Vallejo German Grey to German Uniform Italian Fatigue Shade (4:1) and German Uniform to Oxford Blue Italian Fatigue Light (1:1) is recommended. These mixes will serve as the base colours for your belts and webbing.
Once you have your base colours, you can start painting. Begin by applying the German Camo Black Brown Basecoat to the belts and webbing. This can also be used for blacklining to define the edges of the leather straps. Then, use Vallejo's Leather Brown to sketch out the highlights, focusing on the edges and any areas where you want to create a worn or damaged look. You can also use this colour to indicate tears and cracks in the material for a more weathered appearance.
For a fresh leather look, mix one part Leather Brown with one part Vallejo's Brown Sand and apply this as a final edge highlight. If you prefer a more worn or damaged appearance, you can further enhance the look by using lighter colours to accentuate scratches and cracks. This will give the impression of faded and cracked leather.
Lastly, consider the level of damage you want to portray on the leather. While creating a heavily damaged look can be interesting, it is essential to exercise restraint to avoid making the belt appear too bright or unrealistic.
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Painting leather
The first step is to use a Ger. Camo Black Brown Basecoat, which can also be used for blacklining to reinforce the separation of materials. Next, use Vallejo's Leather Brown to sketch out the highlights, including the edges. If you want a more worn look, you can also use this colour to sketch out tears and cracks. To finish off the fresh leather look, create a final edge highlight with one part Leather Brown and one part Vallejo's Brown Sand.
If you want your leather to look brand new or well-maintained, you can stop at this step. However, if you want a more distressed look, you can continue by adding some cracks and damage. The level of damage you want to depict is up to you, but it is recommended to exercise restraint to avoid making the leather look too bright.
To create a more worn and damaged look, thin down Evergreen Fog and begin edge highlighting the most raised and sharp edges. Then, heavily thin down the Evergreen and begin to glaze towards those highlights. This step will take some time, and you should ensure that the Evergreen is applied slowly with a clear transition towards the highlights. For those who are not confident in glazing, you can simply add Evergreen to the previous mix and apply it to the raised surfaces, finishing with a highlight of pure Evergreen Fog.
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Frequently asked questions
The Italian WW2 winter uniforms were green-grey in colour. You can use Vallejo's German Fieldgrey WWII with Green Grey or German Grey from the same brand.
First, you need to mix Italian Fatigue Shade and Italian Fatigue Light paints. Next, prime the model in black. Then, layer the Italian Light mix across the model, leaving out the recesses and shadows. After that, mix Italian Light with blue grey pale and apply it to the light areas. Finally, mix Italian Light and blue grey pale again for the last edge highlights.
Yes, you can use the shadow, base, highlight system of painting. Start by defining striking edges like the knees and lining around piping and seams. Then, apply a thin layer of Evergreen Fog to the most raised and sharp edges. Gradually glaze towards those highlights until you achieve the desired effect.











































