Leo Martínez
MBZ kits are unique in that they offer models of age-old buildings with a historical timestamp built into their design. To weather paint an MBZ model, there are several techniques to consider. Firstly, MBZ recommends using their range of paints and supplies, which include a base coat and a water-based paint applied with a sponge for a realistic finish. Alternatively, dry brushing is a popular technique where paint is applied to a brush and then removed with a paper towel before lightly applying it to the model. Other options include using a combination of water-based acrylic paints, chalks, Pan Pastels, and powders to create a layered, translucent effect.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Paint type | Water-based paints, oil-based paints, solvent-based primer, wood glue, super glue, acrylic paints, matte finish, flat/matte base colour, automotive primer, mortar mix, drywall repair, acrylic washes, chalks, pigment powders |
| Paint brand | Polly Scale, Modelmaster, MBZ, Krylon |
| Paint colour | Grimy Flat Black, Roof Red, Vermont Green, Pullman Green, Red Oxide Primer, Slate Grey, Khaki |
| Techniques | Dry brushing, sponging, airbrushing, layering, sanding, dusting |
| Tools | Brush, paper towel, sponge, airbrush, X-Acto knife |
| Preparation | Priming, flattening, gluing, sealing |
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Priming and flattening
To begin the process of weathering a laser-cut MBZ model, you must first prime and flatten the cardboard. The natural colour of the cardboard in MBZ kits is grey/brown, so painting is required after applying a solvent-based primer. You can use MBZ Primer R72214 (pre-mixed) or R72211 (unmixed), with the pre-mixed version being the recommended option. Priming is an important step to prevent future mould issues, as suggested by the manufacturer.
Once the primer is applied, you will need to flatten the parts before gluing them together. Large parts, such as the roof and sides, tend to warp heavily after priming. To flatten them, simply roll the parts against the warp, which will easily straighten them out.
It is recommended to use fast-setting and quick-drying glue, such as Noch 'Laser-cut' glue, for assembling the model. Other fast-setting white glues or wood glues can also be used, but a fine applicator bottle is suggested for precise application.
MBZ offers painting kits to get you started on the weathering process. The 'Pigment Starter Set' (R72217) includes numerous pigments, primer (unmixed), and a high-quality sponge. This kit provides enough materials to paint multiple MBZ kits, and the sponge can be used wet or dry to create different effects.
When applying paint to your MBZ model, a loose approach is recommended. Using a dirty sponge between coats of paint can add depth of colour and create an authentic, weathered look. MBZ also suggests applying a base coat of primer before sponging on water-based paint to control the absorption and create varied transparency in the finish.
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Painting techniques
Priming and Preparation: Before painting, it is essential to prime the cardboard surfaces of the MBZ kit with a solvent-based primer, such as MBZ Primer R72214 (pre-mixed) or R72211 (unmixed). This step helps prevent future mould issues and ensures a smooth painting surface. After priming, flatten large parts, such as roofs and sides, by rolling them against the warp.
Water-Based Paints: Water-based paints are easy to work with and are suitable for creating a matte finish. You can use a combination of colours to add depth and bring out details. For example, start with a coat of Grimy Flat Black to highlight the building's details, then add touches of Roof Red to shutters and shadow areas. Mix Vermont Green with Pullman Green to create a subtle moss effect on roof tiles, and apply Pullman Green to shadow areas and chimneys for added depth. Finally, use Grimy Flat Black again to add uneven streaks and weathering to the roof and window frames.
Dry Brushing Technique: Dry brushing is a unique technique that brings out surface details. Saturate a brush with paint, then repeatedly run it over a paper towel until only traces of paint remain. With a light touch, selectively add colour to specific areas, such as soot staining around a chimney or above a locomotive shed door, creating the impression of accumulated soot over time. You can also mix paints and apply layers of different colours for added depth.
Sponging Technique: MBZ recommends using a sponge to apply water-based paint after a base coat. Dilute the paint and use a light touch with the sponge to vary the transparency and create a realistic, opaque finish. A dirty sponge can also add depth and texture between coats of paint.
Additional Weathering Techniques: For laser-etched brick walls, use water-based acrylic paints, chalks, Pan Pastels, or pigment powders to create a weathered look. Start by lightly sanding the painted brick surface to create tone variation. Then, use an X-Acto knife to pick off random bricks for a distressed effect. You can also use dark grey acrylic washes, Pan Pastels, or chalks to create colour variation and a heavily weathered appearance.
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Paint types
When it comes to paint types for laser-cut MBZ models, there are several options to consider. Firstly, it's important to note that MBZ itself sells a range of paints specifically designed for its kits, which can add to the realism of the model. These paints are easy to apply and can be diluted to vary their transparency.
Water-based paints are a popular choice for laser-cut MBZ models. They dry with a matte finish, are easy to work with, and cleanup is simple. You can use a combination of different water-based paints to create the desired effect. For example, Grimy Flat Black can be used to bring out details, while Roof Red adds a hint of colour to foundations, shutters, and shadow areas. Vermont Green and Pullman Green can be mixed to create a subtle moss effect on roof tiles, and Pullman Green can also be used to add depth and shadow.
Oil-based paints are another option, but they dry with a gloss finish that may require thinning. However, some modellers prefer water-based paints as they are more straightforward to use.
Another technique to consider is dry brushing, which brings out surface detail. This involves saturating a brush with paint and then running it back and forth over a paper towel until only traces of paint remain. This technique allows for a light touch when adding colour and can be used to create the appearance of soot staining or other weathering effects.
Additionally, priming is an important step when working with MBZ kits, especially when using cardboard. A solvent-based primer, such as MBZ Primer R72214 (pre-mixed) or R72211 (unmixed), is recommended to prevent future mould issues.
For a heavily weathered look, dark grey acrylic washes, Pan Pastels, or chalks/powders can be used to create colour variation. Lighter colours can also be used to brighten stone surfaces and create accents. A mortar wash can be applied to further enhance the weathered appearance, but it is important to ensure the surface is properly sealed and dry before proceeding.
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Adding detail
Dry Brushing: This technique is excellent for bringing out surface details and adding a three-dimensional effect to your model. Load your brush with paint, then wipe it back and forth on a paper towel until only traces of paint are left. With a light touch, apply the paint to specific areas to create soot staining on roof tiles, above a locomotive shed door, or anywhere you want to suggest accumulated soot from steam locomotives. You can also mix paints and apply layers of different colours for a more complex look.
Sponging: MBZ recommends using a sponge to apply water-based paint over a base coat. Diluting the paint and using a light touch with the sponge allows you to vary the transparency of the paint, creating a unique and realistic finish. A dirty sponge can also add depth to the colour between coats of paint.
Colour Layering: Using water-based acrylic paints, chalks, or pigment powders, you can add translucent layers of colour to create a weathered look. Start with a light sanding of the surface to create variation, then add layers of paint in accent colours. For a brick wall, for example, you can use a combination of colours like red, grey, buff, or brown to create a realistic, weathered effect. You can also distress the surface further by picking off some bricks with an X-Acto knife.
Mortar Wash: After sealing and drying the surface, you can apply a mortar wash to create a textured, brick-like appearance. Use a commercial product or create your own mix with acrylic washes or dry plaster. Apply the mortar to small areas or the entire surface, depending on the look you want to achieve.
Fine Details: Laser etching can be used to create fine details and reliefs that represent masonry, concrete, or steel. Paint penetrates the surface, resulting in a realistic matte finish. This technique is perfect for adding colour layering and translucency, similar to what you would see in real life.
By using these techniques and experimenting with different paint colours and application methods, you can add intricate details and a sense of history to your laser-cut MBZ model.
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Finishing touches
MBZ kits are designed to represent age-old buildings with a historical timestamp built into their design. The cardboard used in MBZ kits is grey/brown, so painting is required after applying a solvent-based primer. It is recommended to use the pre-mixed MBZ Primer R72214 to prime the cardboard before painting. Once the primer is applied, it is important to flatten the parts before gluing them together. After assembling the basic structure, you can start adding the finer details.
When it comes to painting, MBZ kits offer a lot of flexibility. You can use a variety of painting techniques such as dry brushing, sponging, or airbrushing to achieve the desired look. Dry brushing involves saturating a brush with paint and then removing the excess by brushing it onto a paper towel before applying it to the model. This technique is great for bringing out surface details and adding soot staining or other weathering effects. Sponging, on the other hand, can be used to apply a base coat of paint and create a unique texture.
For a laser-cut MBZ model, it is recommended to use water-based paints as they dry with a matte finish and are easy to work with. Oil paints can also be used but will result in a glossier finish that may require thinning. When painting, it is best to take a loose approach and not worry too much about precise paint application. Using a dirty sponge between coats of paint can add depth and variation to the colour.
To create a heavily weathered look, you can use dark grey acrylic washes, pan pastels, or chalks/powders to add colour variation. For a brighter look, lighter colours can be used to accent certain areas. Additionally, a mortar wash can be applied to further enhance the weathered appearance. After painting, it is important to seal the model to protect the paint job.
Overall, the finishing touches for a laser-cut MBZ model involve priming, painting, and sealing the model, using a variety of techniques and materials to achieve the desired weathered and aged appearance.
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Frequently asked questions
MBZ sells a range of paints and supplies that are well-suited to finishing their laser-cut kits. You can use a combination of water-based paints and oil paints, but water-based paints are easier to work with and clean up. You can also use a dry brushing technique to bring out surface detail.
Yes, priming is required to prevent future mold issues. You can use MBZ Primer R72214 (pre-mixed) or R72211 (unmixed), with the pre-mixed version being recommended.
You can use a variety of techniques to create a weathered look, such as using dark grey acrylic washes, chalks, or powders to create colour variation. You can also try the dry brushing technique, where you saturate a brush with paint and then run it back and forth over a paper towel until only traces of paint are left.
You can use either water-based or solvent-based paints on MBZ models. Some specific paint brands that can be used include Polly Scale and Modelmaster.
Yes, MBZ recommends using a sponge to apply a base coat of primary paint to prevent too much soaking in of the finishing touches. A dirty sponge can also give more depth of colour than a clean one between coats of paint.
