Leo Martínez
Painting a Raven Guard army from the Horus Heresy era is an exciting project for any Warhammer 40,000 enthusiast, offering a chance to delve into the rich lore and distinctive aesthetics of this loyal Legion. Known for their stealth tactics and mastery of infiltration, the Raven Guard’s color scheme typically features dark, shadowy hues like black, deep blues, and muted grays, reflecting their preference for operating under the cover of darkness. To achieve an authentic look, start by priming your models with a black undercoat to enhance the depth of darker colors. Layer on shades of dark blue for armor, using techniques like edge highlighting or dry brushing to add dimension. Incorporate subtle details like white or silver accents on trim, weapons, and iconography to make the models stand out. Don’t forget to weather the miniatures with techniques like chipping or battle damage to capture the gritty, war-torn feel of the Horus Heresy. With patience and attention to detail, your Raven Guard will embody the stealthy, deadly spirit of Corax’s Legion on the tabletop.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Base Colors | Dark Angel Green (base), Caliban Green (shading), Warpstone Glow (highlighting) |
| Trim Colors | Leadbelcher (metal), Retributor Armour (gold accents), Abaddon Black (details) |
| Symbol Colors | White Scar (eye of the raven), Abaddon Black (outline) |
| Skin Tones | Bugman's Glow (base), Reikland Fleshshade (shade), Pallid Wych Flesh (highlight) |
| Weapon Colors | Leadbelcher (metal), Nuln Oil (shade), Runefang Steel (highlight) |
| Techniques | Layering, dry brushing, edge highlighting, glazing |
| Unique Features | Raven iconography, weathered armor, muted color scheme |
| Recommended Paints (Citadel) | Dark Angel Green, Caliban Green, Warpstone Glow, Leadbelcher, Retributor Armour, Abaddon Black, White Scar, Bugman's Glow, Reikland Fleshshade, Pallid Wych Flesh, Nuln Oil, Runefang Steel |
| Era-Specific Details | Pre-Heresy markings, less battle damage compared to post-Heresy schemes |
| Contrast Paints Option | Contrast paints can be used for shading (e.g., Creedshell Green over Dark Angel Green) |
| Airbrushing Tips | Use Dark Angel Green as base, Caliban Green for shadows, and Warpstone Glow for highlights |
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What You'll Learn
- Priming Techniques: Apply dark grey or black primer for deep shadows, ensuring even coverage on miniatures
- Base Coat Colors: Use dark angel green or caliban green as the primary base coat
- Layering Highlights: Add subtle highlights with sylvaneth bark or warboss green for depth
- Weathering Effects: Apply dark washes and edge chipping to simulate battle-worn armor
- Symbol & Detail Painting: Use fine brushes for chapter symbols and intricate details in white or gold
Priming Techniques: Apply dark grey or black primer for deep shadows, ensuring even coverage on miniatures
The foundation of any great miniature paint job lies in the primer. For Raven Guard Horus Heresy models, a dark grey or black primer isn't just a suggestion—it's a strategic choice. These shades act as a built-in shadow layer, adding depth and dimension to the intricate details of your miniatures. Imagine the recessed areas of power armor or the crevices of a Land Raider already possessing a natural darkness, ready to be enhanced by your brushstrokes.
This technique is particularly effective for the Raven Guard's aesthetic, which often incorporates dark blues, greys, and blacks. A dark primer provides a seamless transition between base coat and shading, creating a cohesive and visually striking result.
Choosing the right primer is crucial. Opt for a high-quality spray primer specifically designed for miniatures. Brands like Citadel, Army Painter, and Vallejo offer excellent options in both black and dark grey. Hold the can 6-8 inches away from the miniature and apply thin, even coats, allowing each layer to dry completely before adding more. Aim for a smooth, matte finish, avoiding any pooling or overspray.
Remember, the goal is even coverage. Pay close attention to recessed areas and intricate details, ensuring the primer reaches every nook and cranny. A well-primed miniature is the canvas upon which your Raven Guard's story will be told.
While black primer provides the deepest shadows, dark grey offers a slightly more forgiving base. It allows for more subtle transitions and can be particularly useful for highlighting lighter colors. Experiment with both to see which best suits your painting style and the specific Raven Guard model you're working on.
Ultimately, the dark primer technique is a powerful tool for achieving the dramatic and shadowy look synonymous with the Raven Guard. By mastering this foundational step, you'll be well on your way to creating miniatures that truly embody the spirit of the XVII Legion.
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Base Coat Colors: Use dark angel green or caliban green as the primary base coat
Choosing the right base coat is crucial for capturing the distinctive look of Raven Guard during the Horus Heresy. Dark Angel Green or Caliban Green serve as ideal primary base coats, offering a rich, earthy tone that aligns with the legion’s tactical doctrine of stealth and shadow warfare. These shades provide a muted yet striking foundation, allowing subsequent layers and highlights to pop without overwhelming the miniature’s overall aesthetic. Both colors are versatile enough to work across various armor types, from standard legionaries to specialized units like Terminators or vehicles.
From a practical standpoint, applying Dark Angel Green or Caliban Green as your base coat simplifies the painting process. These colors are dark enough to act as a natural shadow, reducing the need for extensive pre-shading. Start by priming your model with a black or dark grey undercoat to enhance depth, then apply the green base coat in thin, even layers. This approach ensures the color adheres smoothly and maintains its richness. For best results, use a medium-sized brush to cover large areas quickly, then switch to a detail brush for edges and recessed areas.
Comparatively, Dark Angel Green leans slightly brighter and more saturated, making it ideal for models you want to stand out on the tabletop. Caliban Green, on the other hand, is deeper and more desaturated, perfect for a grittier, battle-worn appearance. The choice between the two depends on the mood you’re aiming for—whether it’s the vibrancy of a freshly deployed squad or the weathered look of veterans who’ve seen countless campaigns. Both colors pair well with Raven Guard’s signature black and silver accents, ensuring cohesion across your army.
A key takeaway is that these base coats are not just about color but about setting the tone for the entire miniature. By starting with Dark Angel Green or Caliban Green, you establish a foundation that complements the legion’s thematic elements, such as their reliance on stealth and their connection to the shadowy underbelly of the Great Crusade. Remember, consistency is key—use the same base coat across all models to maintain visual unity. For added depth, consider mixing in small amounts of black or dark grey to create variations within the same color scheme.
Finally, don’t underestimate the power of experimentation. While Dark Angel Green and Caliban Green are tried-and-true choices, slight adjustments can yield unique results. For instance, adding a touch of brown to Caliban Green can create a more earthy tone, while mixing in a hint of blue to Dark Angel Green can enhance its coolness. These small tweaks allow you to personalize your Raven Guard while staying true to the legion’s iconic aesthetic. With the right base coat, your miniatures will not only look cohesive but also tell a story of stealth, precision, and the shadows they inhabit.
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Layering Highlights: Add subtle highlights with sylvaneth bark or warboss green for depth
The Raven Guard's aesthetic in the Horus Heresy era demands a balance between grim practicality and subtle artistry. Layering highlights with unconventional colors like Sylvaneth Bark or Warboss Green isn't about garish brightness; it's about creating depth that whispers of shadowed tactics and moonlit strikes. These earthy tones, when applied with precision, mimic the play of light on worn ceramite and weathered armor, suggesting a chapter that thrives in the unseen.
Think of these colors as the Raven Guard's camouflage, not against the environment, but against the very light itself.
To achieve this effect, begin with a solid base coat of a dark, desaturated blue, such as Caliban Green or a custom mix leaning towards teal. This foundation anchors the miniature in the Raven Guard's signature palette. Once dry, thin down Sylvaneth Bark or Warboss Green with a glazing medium (a 2:1 paint-to-medium ratio is a good starting point) and apply it in thin, controlled layers to raised surfaces. Focus on edges, ridges, and areas where light would naturally catch, like the rims of shoulder pads or the crest of a helmet. The goal is to suggest a gradual shift in tone, not a stark contrast.
Imagine you're sculpting the light with paint, coaxing it to reveal the form without overpowering the underlying darkness.
The beauty of this technique lies in its subtlety. Don't expect immediate, dramatic results. Each layer should be a whisper, building upon the last to create a nuanced, organic depth. Patience is key; allow each glaze to dry completely before adding the next. Three to four layers, applied with increasing dilution, will yield a convincing sense of worn, shadowed armor. Remember, the Raven Guard are masters of stealth, and their armor should reflect that – a chameleon's skin in the void, shifting and adapting to the light.
For a final touch, consider a pinpoint highlight of a lighter green, like Warpstone Glow, on the very edges to suggest the faintest glimmer of reflected light, a fleeting hint of their presence before they vanish back into the darkness.
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Weathering Effects: Apply dark washes and edge chipping to simulate battle-worn armor
The Raven Guard's battle-worn aesthetic demands a nuanced approach to weathering, and dark washes paired with edge chipping are your secret weapons. Think of washes as the grime and shadows that accumulate in the recesses of armor, while chipping reveals the underlayers, telling the story of each warrior's combat history. This technique isn't about randomness; it's about controlled chaos, mimicking the wear and tear of relentless warfare.
Example: Imagine a Raven Guard marine's shoulder pad. A dark wash like Nuln Oil pooled in the crevices around the emblem creates depth and shadows, while carefully applied edge chipping along the raised edges reveals the silver undercoat, suggesting the paint has been scraped away by enemy fire or close combat.
Analysis: Dark washes, when applied judiciously, add richness and depth to your miniatures. They accentuate details, making them pop while simultaneously creating a sense of grime and age. Edge chipping, on the other hand, introduces a narrative element. It's not just about making things look "dirty"; it's about suggesting a history of combat, of battles won and lost. The key lies in restraint. Overdoing washes can result in a muddy mess, while excessive chipping can look cartoonish.
Takeaway: Less is often more. Start with thin layers of wash, allowing each to dry completely before adding more. For chipping, use a fine brush and a light touch, focusing on areas that would naturally experience wear, like edges, corners, and raised details.
Steps:
- Base Coat: Begin with a solid base coat of your chosen Raven Guard color scheme.
- Dark Wash Application: Apply a thin layer of dark wash (like Nuln Oil or Agrax Earthshade) to the entire miniature, focusing on recesses and areas where dirt would naturally accumulate. Allow to dry completely.
- Highlighting: Reapply your base colors, leaving the wash in the shadows. Highlight raised areas with a lighter shade of your base color.
- Edge Chipping: Using a fine detail brush and a lighter color (silver for a metallic undercoat, or a lighter shade of your base color), carefully apply small, irregular chips along edges and raised details.
Cautions: Avoid over-chipping. Focus on areas that would logically experience wear, like the edges of shoulder pads, knee guards, and weapon grips.
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Symbol & Detail Painting: Use fine brushes for chapter symbols and intricate details in white or gold
Fine detail work, such as painting chapter symbols and intricate designs in white or gold, can elevate your Raven Guard models from good to exceptional. The key lies in using the right tools: fine brushes with sharp tips and excellent paint retention. A size 0 or 00 brush is ideal for this task, allowing precision without sacrificing control. When selecting paints, opt for high-quality acrylics with good opacity, as they will provide better coverage and reduce the need for multiple layers.
The process begins with a steady hand and a well-prepared surface. Ensure your model is free of mold lines and imperfections, as these will detract from the final result. Start by basecoating the area to be detailed with a color that complements your chosen detail color. For white details, a light gray base can help achieve better coverage; for gold, a dark brown or black base can add depth. Allow this base coat to dry completely before proceeding.
Painting white details requires patience and thin layers. White paint tends to be less opaque, so apply it in multiple thin coats, allowing each layer to dry before adding the next. This technique, known as layering, prevents the paint from becoming too thick or obscuring fine details. For gold details, consider using a metallic paint for a more realistic finish. Apply the gold in smooth, even strokes, following the natural contours of the model to enhance the illusion of metal.
One common challenge is maintaining sharpness in fine lines and edges. To achieve this, keep your brush at a low angle to the surface and use minimal paint. Wipe excess paint from your brush frequently to avoid buildup, which can lead to blobbing or loss of detail. If mistakes occur, don’t panic—a small brush dipped in your basecoat color can be used to correct errors without starting over.
Finally, sealing your work is crucial to protect the delicate details. Use a matte or satin varnish applied with a spray or brush, ensuring an even coat without pooling. This step not only preserves your hard work but also adds a professional finish to your Raven Guard models. With practice and attention to detail, your chapter symbols and intricate designs will stand out, capturing the essence of the Horus Heresy era.
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Frequently asked questions
The primary colors for Raven Guard are Caliban Green (base), Elysian Green (highlight), and Abaddon Black (armor accents). Use Leadbelcher or Stormhost Silver for metallics and Mournfang Brown or Rhinox Hide for leather and belts.
Start with a Abaddon Black basecoat, then apply Caliban Green over it. Shade with Nuln Oil or Biel-Tan Green, and highlight with Elysian Green or a mix of Caliban Green and Moots Green.
Use a fine detail brush and Abaddon Black or White Scar for the raven iconography. Freehand the markings or use stencils for consistency. Edge highlight the icons with a lighter color for added depth.
Apply Typhus Corrosion or Ryza Rust for metallic chipping, and use Agrax Earthshade or Seraphim Sepia for dirt and grime. Add scratches with a fine brush and Abaddon Black, and use Stahlrim Black for battle scars on metallics.
