Lena Rivera
Painting bones with Army Painter washes is a straightforward and effective technique for achieving realistic, shaded bone textures in miniature painting. Start by priming the model with a suitable undercoat, such as a light gray or white, to enhance the wash’s effect. Apply a base coat of off-white or bone-colored paint to the bone areas, ensuring smooth coverage. Once dry, use Army Painter’s Strong Tone or Soft Tone wash, depending on the desired depth of shading, and carefully apply it to the bone surfaces. The wash will pool in recesses, creating natural shadows and depth. Allow the wash to dry completely, then highlight raised areas with a lighter bone color to bring out details. This method is ideal for both beginners and experienced painters, offering a quick and efficient way to achieve professional-looking bone effects.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Base Coat | Start with a light base coat, such as Army Painter's Skeleton Bone or a similar off-white color. This provides a good foundation for the washes. |
| First Wash | Apply a thin layer of Army Painter's Soft Tone or Strong Tone wash, depending on the desired level of shading. Soft Tone is ideal for subtle shading, while Strong Tone adds deeper shadows. |
| Layering | Allow the first wash to dry completely, then apply additional layers of wash to build up shadows and depth. Focus on recessed areas and natural shadows. |
| Highlighting | Once the washes are dry, use a lighter shade of bone color (e.g., Skeleton Bone or a mix of white and bone) to highlight raised areas, edges, and details. |
| Dry Brushing | For added texture and definition, dry brush a lighter bone color over the entire model. This technique helps to blend the washes and create a more realistic bone appearance. |
| Final Wash (Optional) | Apply a final, diluted layer of wash (e.g., Soft Tone) to tie everything together and add subtle shading to the highlights. |
| Sealing | After the paint is completely dry, seal the model with a matte or satin varnish to protect the paint job and enhance durability. |
| Recommended Washes | Army Painter's Soft Tone, Strong Tone, and Dark Tone washes are commonly used for painting bones, with Soft Tone being the most popular for subtle shading. |
| Drying Time | Allow each wash layer to dry completely (typically 1-2 hours) before applying the next layer to avoid muddling the colors. |
| Techniques | Focus on thin, even layers of wash, and use a wet palette or water to dilute the washes as needed for smoother application. |
| Tips | Practice on a test model to get a feel for the washes, and experiment with different combinations of washes and highlighting techniques to achieve the desired effect. |
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What You'll Learn
- Prepare Bones Miniatures - Clean, prime, and base coat bones miniatures before applying Army Painter washes
- Choose Wash Colors - Select washes like Soft Tone, Strong Tone, or Dark Tone for bone shading
- Apply Wash Techniques - Use thin layers, focus on recesses, and blend washes for realistic bone texture
- Highlight Bones - Dry brush or layer lighter paints over washes to enhance bone details
- Seal and Protect - Finish with a matte varnish to preserve the washed bone effect
Prepare Bones Miniatures - Clean, prime, and base coat bones miniatures before applying Army Painter washes
Bones miniatures, known for their durability and affordability, require specific preparation to ensure optimal results when using Army Painter washes. Unlike metal or resin models, Bones miniatures are made from a flexible PVC material that can be slightly porous. This porosity means they may not hold paint or washes as effectively without proper preparation. Cleaning, priming, and applying a base coat are essential steps to create a smooth, receptive surface for your washes.
Cleaning Bones Miniatures
Begin by washing the miniature with warm, soapy water to remove any mold release residue, which can interfere with paint adhesion. Use a mild dish soap and a soft-bristled toothbrush to gently scrub the surface, paying attention to crevices and details. Rinse thoroughly and allow the miniature to air dry completely. For stubborn residue, a brief soak in isopropyl alcohol (70% concentration) followed by another rinse can be effective. Avoid harsh chemicals or abrasive tools, as they may damage the material.
Priming for Success
Priming is crucial for Bones miniatures because it seals the porous surface and provides a stable foundation for paint. Use a spray primer specifically designed for plastic models, such as Army Painter’s Color Primer or a similar product. Shake the can vigorously for at least 2 minutes to ensure proper mixing, then apply thin, even coats from a distance of 6–8 inches. Hold the can perpendicular to the miniature and use sweeping motions to avoid pooling. Allow each coat to dry for 10–15 minutes before applying the next. Two light coats are generally sufficient, ensuring full coverage without obscuring details.
Applying the Base Coat
Once primed, apply a base coat of acrylic paint to establish the miniature’s overall color scheme. Choose a color that complements the final look you’re aiming for—for example, a dark brown or gray for a gritty, realistic style, or a brighter color for a more vibrant finish. Use a high-quality synthetic brush and thin your paint with a small amount of water (approximately a 1:1 ratio) to ensure smooth application. Apply the base coat in thin layers, allowing each to dry completely before adding the next. This prevents streaking and ensures even coverage. Focus on consistency rather than opacity at this stage, as the washes will add depth later.
Why Preparation Matters
Skipping any of these steps can lead to subpar results. Uncleaned miniatures may repel paint, while unprimed surfaces can cause washes to pool or absorb unevenly. A poorly applied base coat can dull the effect of washes, making shadows and highlights less pronounced. By investing time in proper preparation, you create a solid foundation that enhances the performance of Army Painter washes, allowing them to blend seamlessly and highlight the miniature’s details. This meticulous approach ensures your Bones miniatures not only look professional but also withstand the test of time.
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Choose Wash Colors - Select washes like Soft Tone, Strong Tone, or Dark Tone for bone shading
Selecting the right wash colors is crucial for achieving realistic bone shading, and The Army Painter’s Soft Tone, Strong Tone, and Dark Tone washes offer distinct effects tailored to this purpose. Soft Tone, a light brown wash, is ideal for subtle shading, mimicking the natural wear and tear of aged bones. Apply it thinly over a base coat of off-white or beige to enhance recesses without overwhelming the surface. This wash is perfect for beginners or for bones meant to appear freshly exposed, as it adds depth without drastic contrast.
For a more pronounced effect, Strong Tone steps in as a medium brown wash that intensifies shadows and defines bone structure. Use it sparingly, focusing on deeper crevices and areas where natural shadows would fall. Its higher pigment concentration makes it a versatile choice for both skeletal miniatures and larger bone elements in dioramas. Pair it with Soft Tone for a layered approach, applying Strong Tone after the initial wash has dried to build complexity.
Dark Tone, a deep brown wash, is the heaviest of the trio and best reserved for dramatic shading or weathered bones. Its richness can create stark contrasts, ideal for bones exposed to harsh environments or those with a macabre aesthetic. Dilute it slightly with water or a medium to maintain control, as its intensity can quickly dominate the surface. Use Dark Tone as a final layer in select areas to add depth and character without losing the bone’s natural shape.
When choosing between these washes, consider the desired mood and scale of your project. Soft Tone excels in delicate, small-scale work, while Strong Tone and Dark Tone are better suited for larger pieces or bold styles. Experiment with combinations—for instance, layering Soft Tone as a base, followed by targeted Strong Tone, and finishing with Dark Tone in the deepest recesses. This technique mimics natural bone gradients and adds dimensionality. Always test on a scrap surface to gauge the wash’s flow and opacity before applying it to your final piece.
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Apply Wash Techniques - Use thin layers, focus on recesses, and blend washes for realistic bone texture
The key to achieving realistic bone texture with Army Painter washes lies in the application technique. Thin layers are your best friend. Imagine glazing a cake – you wouldn’t slather on thick frosting all at once. Similarly, apply washes in multiple, thin coats, allowing each layer to dry completely before adding the next. This builds depth gradually, preventing the paint from pooling or obscuring fine details. A single, heavy wash will result in a flat, muddy appearance, robbing your bones of their natural, weathered look.
Aim for 2-3 thin layers, adjusting based on the desired intensity.
Recesses are the secret weapon for realism. Bones, whether animal or skeletal, have natural crevices and indentations. Focus your washes on these areas, allowing the pigment to settle and accentuate the depth. Use a fine brush to carefully guide the wash into the recesses, letting capillary action do the work. Avoid flooding the entire surface – you want to highlight the bone's structure, not drown it. Think of it as shading a drawing – the shadows define the form.
A helpful tip: Dilute your wash slightly with water (roughly a 1:1 ratio) for better control and flow into tight spaces.
Blending washes is where the magic happens. Don’t be afraid to experiment with different Army Painter wash colors to achieve a more nuanced bone tone. Start with a base wash, like Soft Tone or Strong Tone, to establish the overall shade. Once dry, selectively apply a lighter wash, such as Seraphim Sepia or Agrax Earthshade, to highlight raised areas and create subtle variations. This layering and blending technique mimics the natural color gradients found in real bones, adding depth and realism to your miniatures. Remember, less is often more – subtle transitions are key to a convincing bone texture.
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Highlight Bones - Dry brush or layer lighter paints over washes to enhance bone details
Dry brushing is a cornerstone technique for highlighting bones after applying Army Painter washes. Its simplicity and effectiveness make it a favorite among painters of all skill levels. Load a stiff, flat brush with a small amount of light-colored paint—a bone white or off-white works well—and remove most of it on a paper towel or palette. What remains on the brush should be minimal, ensuring only the raised edges of the bone catch the pigment. Gently glide the brush over the surface, letting the bristles naturally follow the contours of the miniature. This method is particularly forgiving, as it requires no precision and relies on the brush’s texture to create highlights effortlessly.
Layering lighter paints over washes offers a more controlled approach to enhancing bone details. After the wash has dried completely, apply thin coats of progressively lighter shades, focusing on areas where natural light would hit—ridges, edges, and protrusions. Start with a mid-tone paint, such as a light gray or beige, and gradually work up to pure white. Each layer should be thin enough to allow the underlying wash to show through, creating depth and realism. This technique demands patience, as rushing can lead to thick, uneven paint buildup, but the result is a smooth, polished finish that mimics the natural wear of bone.
Comparing dry brushing and layering reveals distinct advantages for each. Dry brushing is faster and ideal for large batches of miniatures or when time is limited. Its ability to highlight multiple areas in a single pass makes it efficient, though it may lack the finesse of layering. Layering, on the other hand, provides greater precision and control, making it suitable for intricate models or when a high level of detail is desired. The choice between the two often depends on the project’s scope and the painter’s preference for speed versus refinement.
A practical tip for both methods is to experiment with the opacity of your highlights. For dry brushing, mix a tiny amount of glazing medium with your highlight paint to reduce its opacity, allowing more of the wash to show through. When layering, thin your paint with a flow improver or water to create translucent coats that build up gradually. This ensures the highlights blend seamlessly with the wash, avoiding harsh transitions. Additionally, always work in thin layers, as it’s easier to add more paint than to correct over-application.
In conclusion, highlighting bones with dry brushing or layering over washes is a transformative step in miniature painting. Both techniques enhance the depth and realism of bone details, but they cater to different needs and styles. Dry brushing excels in speed and ease, while layering offers precision and control. By mastering these methods and understanding their nuances, painters can elevate their work, ensuring their miniatures stand out on the tabletop or display shelf.
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Seal and Protect - Finish with a matte varnish to preserve the washed bone effect
Matte varnish is the unsung hero of miniature painting, particularly when it comes to preserving the delicate, washed bone effect achieved with Army Painter products. Unlike glossy or satin finishes, matte varnish eliminates unwanted shine, ensuring the bone’s natural, weathered appearance remains intact. It acts as a sacrificial layer, protecting the paint job from handling, moisture, and the inevitable wear and tear of tabletop gaming. Without it, even the most meticulously painted bones can degrade over time, losing their depth and detail.
Applying matte varnish requires precision and patience. Shake the varnish thoroughly to ensure an even consistency, as clumping can ruin the finish. Use a large, soft brush to apply thin, even coats, holding the brush at a slight angle to minimize pooling. Allow each coat to dry completely—typically 20–30 minutes—before applying the next. Two to three coats are usually sufficient, but avoid over-varnishing, as this can dull the washed effect or create a cloudy appearance. For best results, work in a well-ventilated area and maintain a steady hand to prevent dust particles from settling on the wet varnish.
The choice of varnish brand matters. Army Painter’s own Anti-Shine Varnish is a popular option, specifically formulated to preserve matte finishes without altering the underlying colors. Alternatively, Vallejo’s Matte Varnish offers a slightly thicker consistency, ideal for models that will endure rough handling. For larger projects, an airbrush application can provide a smoother, more uniform finish, though this requires additional equipment and practice. Regardless of the brand, always test the varnish on a scrap model or inconspicuous area first to ensure compatibility with your paint job.
One common misconception is that varnish is optional. While it’s true that some painters skip this step, especially for display-only pieces, the reality is that varnish significantly extends the life of your work. Without it, oils from your skin, accidental spills, or even UV light can degrade the paint over time. For gaming miniatures, varnish is non-negotiable—it’s the difference between a bone effect that lasts a year versus one that fades after a few sessions. Think of it as the final, crucial step in transforming fragile art into durable, playable pieces.
Finally, consider the long-term care of your varnished models. Store them in a cool, dry place, away from direct sunlight, to prevent yellowing or cracking. If the varnish does become damaged, carefully touch up the affected area with a fresh coat, blending it into the surrounding surface. While matte varnish provides robust protection, it’s not indestructible—regular inspection and maintenance will ensure your washed bone effect remains as striking as the day you finished painting. In the world of miniature painting, preservation is just as important as creation.
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Frequently asked questions
Clean the bones thoroughly with warm soapy water to remove any mold release agents or grease. Dry them completely, then prime with a thin, even coat of spray primer (white or grey works well) to ensure the wash adheres properly.
Load a large brush with the wash and apply it generously over the primed bone surface. Let it settle into recesses and crevices naturally. Wipe off excess from raised areas with a clean, damp brush for a smooth, shaded look.
Yes, you can layer washes for depth. Start with a darker wash (e.g., Soft Tone) for shading, let it dry, then apply a lighter wash (e.g., Strong Tone) for contrast. Ensure each layer is fully dry before adding the next to avoid muddiness.
