Leo Martínez
Ombre and balayage are two of the most popular hair colouring techniques. Ombre is a French word meaning 'shadow' or 'shade', and the style creates a two-tone effect, transitioning from a darker shade at the top to lighter strands at the bottom. Balayage, which means 'to sweep' in French, is a hand-painting technique where hairdressers lighten carefully selected strands of hair to achieve a natural, sun-kissed look. While ombre and balayage can be applied to any hair length, they are more striking on longer hair. This article will provide a step-by-step guide to achieving the balayage ombre look at home.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Technique | Ombre is a shading technique that blends one color shade into another, creating a natural gradient that transitions from darker roots to lightened ends. Balayage, on the other hand, is a hand-painting technique where hairdressers lighten carefully selected strands of hair by two or three tones to achieve a natural, sun-kissed look. |
| Hair Length | Ombre is more suitable for longer hair as it makes you less likely to look like you have grown-out roots. Balayage can be applied to any hair length but is more striking on longer hair. |
| Application | In ombre, hair dye is applied from mid-length to ends in a freehand manner. Balayage also uses a freehand application, but the dye is painted onto the hair from the midstrand to the ends. |
| Color Options | Ombre can be done using any color combination, with the darker color at the roots often being the client's natural base color. Traditional ombre has lighter tips, while reverse ombre has darker tips and lighter roots. Balayage typically lifts the natural hair color by a few shades, resulting in a blended-in "grow out line". |
| Tools | For ombre, Revlon's Magnet Blondes Ultimate Powder and Oil Developer are recommended for lightening the hair. Balayage tools include a sectioning comb, clips, a mixing bowl, a lightener, a developer, and a painting brush. |
| Timing | Ombre requires letting the bleach set for 10-45 minutes, depending on the desired shade. For balayage, the lightener is typically left on for 20-30 minutes, with coarse hair requiring a longer processing time. |
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What You'll Learn
Ombre vs balayage
Ombre and balayage are two popular hair colouring techniques that can transform dull, lifeless hair into a gorgeous, dimensional style. Although they have features in common, they are two distinct techniques.
Ombre is a two-toned colour effect, typically darker at the top and lighter at the bottom, creating a distinctive gradient effect. It is a dip-dye without a harsh line, a simple blend from one colour to another. Straight hair works best with this technique as the gradient is more easily visible. Ombre can be achieved with natural hair colours or fashion shades.
Balayage, on the other hand, is a French word meaning "to sweep" or "to paint". It is a freehand technique, where colour is applied to the surface of the hair, creating soft, blended highlights. The application begins away from the roots and gradually becomes heavier towards the ends. This technique can be used to create a natural, sun-kissed look, perfect for any hair type and colour. It is a good option for those with wavy, curly or coily hair.
Both techniques can be combined to achieve a desired look, such as a traditional ombre with the higher lift of foilyage, or a reverse ombre, with lighter tones at the top and darker at the bottom.
Doing ombre or balayage at home is possible but challenging. It requires familiarity with bleaching, highlighting and toning techniques. It is important to use the right products for your hair type and colour to achieve the desired result.
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Choosing the right products
Hair Bleach and Developers
The first step in creating an ombre or balayage effect is lightening the hair. This is typically achieved using hair bleach. When selecting a bleach, opt for a product designed for hair lightening, such as the Wella Color Charm Painting Balayage System, which is specifically formulated for open-air lightening without the need for foils.
The volume of the developer you choose will depend on your natural hair colour and the desired level of lightening. For lighter hair or a more subtle effect, a 20-volume developer is suitable. If you have darker hair and want a more noticeable lift, consider a 30-volume developer.
Toners
Using a toner is crucial to achieving the desired shade and preventing unwanted brassy or orange tones. Toners can be purchased from brands like Wella, or you can create your own using vegetable dyes. For example, mixing blue and purple veggie dyes with conditioner can help tone your hair.
Applicator Tools
The application technique varies between balayage and ombre. For balayage, which involves freehand painting, a brush designed for hair colouring can be used to create a sweeping effect. Avoid using a traditional paintbrush, as different hair textures will require different application methods. For ombre, an applicator brush is recommended to apply bleach in vertical strokes, creating a smooth gradient without harsh lines.
Protective Gear
When working with hair bleach and other chemicals, it's important to protect your skin and clothing. Wear gloves to protect your hands from the lightening products. Additionally, consider wearing an artist's smock or an old t-shirt to prevent stains on your clothing.
Hair Condition and Texture
Before beginning the process, ensure your hair is in good condition and free of tangles. The health of your hair will impact how it takes the lightener and colour. Additionally, consider your hair texture and density when sectioning your hair. For fine hair, keep sections about 1/2" apart, while for coarse hair, increase the distance to about 1".
Remember, it's always advisable to do a patch test before applying any chemical product to your hair to ensure you don't have an allergic reaction. Follow the instructions on the products you choose, and be mindful of the processing times to achieve your desired shade.
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Preparing your hair
Brush and Section Your Hair:
Start by thoroughly brushing your hair to ensure it is tangle-free. This step will not only make the application process easier but also help in achieving even colour distribution. Then, use a sectioning comb to create a diagonal slice just above your ear, forming a backward slash '/\' shape. This will be your first section.
Separate the Front Sections:
Use hair clips to separate the front left and right sections of your hair. These sections will be worked on individually, so ensure they are securely clipped and well-defined. Leave the back section alone, as it will create an intentional ombre effect.
Understand Your Hair Texture and Density:
The spacing of your sections will depend on your hair texture and density. If you have fine hair, each section should be about half an inch apart. For coarse or curly hair, increase the spacing to one inch. This ensures that the lightener or bleach is applied evenly and effectively.
Choose the Right Products:
Select a balayage clay lightener specifically designed to lift your hair colour without the need for highlighting foil. Combine it with a cream lightener or developer that suits your hair's natural colour and texture. Follow the brand's measuring ratios and mix them until you achieve a spackle-like consistency.
Protect Your Hands and Clothing:
Before you begin the application, protect your hands by wearing gloves or using a suitable protective cream. Additionally, wear an artist's smock or an old t-shirt to prevent bleach or dye from staining your clothes.
Remember, balayage is a technique that lightens carefully selected strands of hair, creating a natural, sun-kissed look. By taking the time to prepare your hair properly, you'll be well on your way to achieving the desired results.
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Application techniques
The word "balayage" comes from the French verb "to sweep", and this is exactly how the technique is applied. It involves hand-painting or sweeping highlights onto the hair to add ribbons of colour that differ from the uniformity of foil highlights or the gradient colour of ombre hair. The freehand application allows for a completely custom colour.
To achieve balayage, you should start by sectioning your hair. This involves creating a diagonal slice just above your ear. Then, you should separate the front left and right sections of your hair. You can do this by creating a "'leave-out' section" about half an inch to one inch from your hair parting, depending on your hair density. The section above this will be your next painting section.
Next, you should apply your lightener or bleach to your hair, ensuring that you do not get it on your roots. You can use a painting brush or an expert touch applicator to do this. Starting further down the hair shaft, use your middle and index fingers to blend the lightener into your hair, before coating the rest of the section all the way down to the ends. Repeat this process for each section of hair until you reach the top of your head, where your hair is parted, and then set a timer for 20-30 minutes. The amount of time you leave the lightener in your hair will depend on the desired shade and your hair texture.
For ombre hair, you should also start by brushing your hair to ensure there are no tangles, which will make applying the bleach easier and ensure your hair is evenly coloured. You should then apply bleach to the lower portion of your hair, using an applicator brush and taking vertical strokes down the hair strand to avoid a stark line. You can then leave the bleach in your hair for 10-45 minutes, depending on how light you want your hair to be.
If you want to create a reverse ombre, you can start by colouring the ends of your hair darker and then gradually fading out into lighter shades until you reach the desired shade.
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Aftercare
Washing
Limit how often you wash your hair to 2–3 times a week. When you do wash your hair, try to avoid harsh products. It is recommended to use a sulfate-free shampoo and conditioner to prevent colour fading and strengthen hair bonds.
Toning
Once a week, apply a hair gloss product to keep the colour vibrant and prevent brassy or orange tones.
Bleaching
If you have dark hair, you may need multiple rounds of bleaching to achieve your desired shade. Leaving the bleach in for longer will help to prevent brassy or orange tones.
Dyeing
If you want to avoid brassy or orange tones, you can dye your hair after bleaching it.
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