
Ice Resin® is a two-part epoxy resin that dries permanently with a glasslike finish. It can be used on anything that is dry or oil-based and can be applied to flat surfaces. However, it is important to note that Ice Resin® is self-doming, which means it naturally forms a dome shape when poured. To achieve a smooth, glossy finish on a flat surface, one might consider using a doming resin, which has a high viscosity that allows it to level evenly after application. Nonetheless, Ice Resin® can be used effectively on flat surfaces with proper preparation and curing techniques, such as curing in layers to create 3D effects.
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What You'll Learn

Painting on top of cured ice resin
Once the resin is cured, it can be painted. It is recommended to use acrylic paint, which can be applied directly to the cured resin surface. If you are adding a top coat of resin after painting, ensure that the paint is completely dry first. The surface should also be clean to ensure that the additional coat of resin adheres nicely. If there are any unwanted paint marks on the cured resin, they can be removed by sanding them off or using a paint remover.
It is also possible to use other types of paints and creative techniques on top of cured ice resin. Some people have used metallic paints, alcohol inks, and gold leaf. Priming the resin surface before painting can be beneficial, especially if you want to avoid multiple coats of paint. Gesso, a primer commonly used in art, is available in different colours and can be used to prepare the resin surface for painting.
Additionally, when working with ice resin, it is important to be mindful of any bubbles that may form during the mixing process. While some artists embrace the unique interest that bubbles can add to a piece, others may prefer to remove them. Small bubbles can be left to rise and pop naturally, while larger ones can be drilled or cut open, cleaned out, and then filled and smoothed over with a fresh batch of resin.
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Using ice resin on flat surfaces
Ice Resin is a two-part epoxy resin that dries permanently and will not fade or yellow. It has a clear, glass-like finish and can be used on anything that is dry or oil-based. It can be used to fill cracks and crevices and can be painted on flat surfaces.
To use Ice Resin on a flat surface, it is recommended to use a Studio Sheet to protect your work surface and baby wipes to clean up any spills. You will need to mix the resin and hardener in equal parts and stir thoroughly for 2 minutes. It is important to note that the resin doesn't dry, it cures through a chemical process. The curing time is the same whether you use a little or a lot, and it takes about 6-10 hours to cure to the touch and 72 hours for a full cure.
When working with Ice Resin, it is important to avoid dust as it can become embedded in the resin. You can pour the resin directly into the setting or use a stick to carefully place the resin into the setting, which is recommended for smaller objects with crevices or deep corners. You have about 30 to 40 minutes to work with the resin before it sets.
If you want to create a dome shape with your resin, Ice Resin is self-doming, which means it naturally forms a dome when poured into a bezel. To achieve a good dome, pour the bezel almost full, let it dry for six hours, and then mix a new batch and add a little more to fill it up.
You can also use Ice Resin to fill cracks and crevices. To do this, mix a batch of resin and slowly add baby powder until you get the desired consistency. Use this paste to fill in the cracks and let it set before lightly sanding and painting to match the finish of the item.
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Curing ice resin in multiple layers
While I could not find specific information about curing ice resin in multiple layers, I did find some general information about curing ice resin and curing resin in multiple layers.
Curing Ice Resin
Ice Resin® is a two-part epoxy resin consisting of a resin and a hardener. It is mixed in equal parts and cures to a clear solid after being left to harden for up to three days. It is important to measure accurately and stir thoroughly for two minutes. You can use a permanent marker to mark the precise fill lines of Part A and Part B on the Ice Resin Mixing Cup to ensure you are measuring accurately. It is also important to note that the hardener has a shelf life of about a year and should be stored in a cool, dry place.
Curing Resin in Multiple Layers
UV resin is a type of resin that is applied in multiple thin layers and remains wet until exposed to UV light or sunlight. Each layer takes about 15-20 minutes to cure under a UV lamp and a few hours to cure in direct sunlight. It is important to note that the area should be covered to keep it free of dust for a few days.
Tips for Working with Resin
- A nice, warm room makes it easier to mix resin and allows bubbles to dissipate.
- You can use a toothpick or piece of wire to poke any remaining bubbles.
- If you find a bubble in your resin, you can decide to keep it or drill, clean, and resin over it.
- If you want to remove the bubble, use a small twist drill or craft knife to open up and clear out the bubble.
- Lightly sand the resin with 600 or higher grit sandpaper to give the resin some 'tooth' or roughness for the new resin to grab onto.
- Clean any resin debris or dust off the resin piece before applying a fresh batch of resin.
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Removing bubbles from ice resin
Bubbles in resin are a common issue, especially when mixing resin with hardener, which can cause a cloudy appearance. These bubbles are caused by the stirring action, which introduces air into the blend. The good news is that there are ways to minimise or eliminate them.
Firstly, you can prevent bubbles from forming by slowly pouring the resin into the middle of the cast, holding the spout a few inches away from the surface. This ensures an even distribution of the resin. If the mould has an irregular shape, move the pouring cup in a smooth circular motion, avoiding pouring resin over itself. Stirring slowly from the bottom towards the surface will also help to push bubbles towards the surface naturally.
If you are using a mould, you can "paint" a thin layer of resin onto the object with a stir stick before placing it in the mould. If you get a bubble, use a toothpick to dislodge it and then drag it out to the edge of the mould. You can also run the toothpick around the bottom edges of the mould to dislodge any bubbles caught between the sidewall and the bottom.
If you are mixing resin and it feels cold to the touch, try warming the bottles in a container of warm water before mixing. This will prevent tiny, microscopic bubbles from forming.
If you do end up with bubbles, there are several ways to remove them:
- Use a heat gun or torch to break the surface tension and allow bubbles to rise and pop.
- Use a pressure pot or vacuum chamber to remove air pressure around the pour, encouraging trapped air bubbles to escape.
- Allow the mixed resin to rest for 5-10 minutes before using it, so bubbles can rise to the surface and pop.
- After pouring, wait 10-15 minutes for residual bubbles to appear and pop.
- Use a straw to blow on the bubbles and pop them with your breath.
- Cut open large bubbles, remove the trapped air, and fill with fresh resin.
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Using ice resin on polymer clay
Ice resin can be used on polymer clay to create a glossy, professional finish. It is a two-part epoxy resin that requires accurate mixing and has a watery consistency when first mixed. Within 30 minutes, it will start to solidify and become thick and syrupy. It will be touch-dry within 24 hours and fully cured within 48 hours.
Ice resin is a popular choice for use with polymer clay due to its reasonable price and availability. It can be purchased online from craft websites and stores such as eBay and Amazon, with two eight-ounce bottles costing around $30 on average.
When using ice resin on polymer clay, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for mixing and application. It is recommended to apply the resin to batches of beads or pieces rather than individual ones to ensure proper mixing and reduce wastage. The resin will adhere well to the polymer clay, creating a clear, glass-like finish.
There are a few things to keep in mind when working with ice resin. Firstly, it cannot be exposed to intense heat, so re-baking the clay after applying the resin is not an option. Secondly, like other resins, it will yellow if exposed to direct sunlight for too long. Proper curing according to the manufacturer's instructions is essential to avoid this issue.
To achieve the best results with ice resin on polymer clay, it is recommended to practice and follow tutorials or tips and tricks provided by experienced users. Some common issues with resin include spilling out of bezels, sagging, developing bare spots, and getting bubbles and dust. However, with practice and the right techniques, these issues can be avoided, and ice resin can be a well-worthwhile medium for sealing and finishing polymer clay creations.
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Frequently asked questions
Yes, ice resin can be painted on a flat surface. It is a two-part epoxy resin that dries permanently and will not fade or yellow.
It is recommended to use a Studio Sheet to protect your work surface and baby wipes to clean up any spills.
Yes, you can use ice resin to fill cracks. Wear a mask and make a paste with resin and baby powder. Use the paste to fill the cracks, let it set, lightly sand, and paint to match the finish of the item.
You can poke any remaining bubbles with a toothpick or a piece of wire. You can also use a small twist drill or craft knife to open up and clear out the bubble, and then fill the hole with a fresh batch of resin.
It takes 6-10 hours for ice resin to cure to the touch, and 72 hours for a full cure.











































