
Cameo jewellery has been popular since the 3rd century BC, with the earliest examples of this type of carved art dating back to this period. Over the years, cameos have been crafted from a variety of materials, including shell, coral, stone, lava, glass, agate, marble, onyx, ivory, mother-of-pearl, and precious gemstones. They are usually set in gold or silver. Cameos typically depict a profile of a face or a mythical scene, although they can also feature nature, mythological creatures, men, and animals. Due to their enduring popularity, there are many replicas and imitations of vintage cameos available today. These replicas are often made from plastic or glass and set in heavy base metals, making them heavier than authentic shell and porcelain cameos. To identify a vintage cameo, one can look for specific details such as the type of pin, the weight, and the presence of a faint white band near the outer border, which may indicate a laser-cut imitation.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Material | Shell (conch shell, carnelian shell, bullmouth shell), stone, lava, glass, agate, marble, coral, precious gemstones, onyx, ivory, mother-of-pearl, porcelain, Bakelite plastic |
| Setting | Gold, silver, platinum |
| Design | Profile of a face (usually a woman), mythical scene, nature, men, animals, historical figures |
| Era | Victorian Era (straight nose), pre-1860s (strong Roman nose), Edwardian (subtle black aura), 1930s-1940s |
| Details | Earrings, pearl necklaces, loose curls, flowers |
| Type of Pin | Plain "c-clasp" (no roll-over fitting) |
| Weight | Plastic and glass cameos tend to be heavier than shell and porcelain cameos |
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What You'll Learn
- Cameo pendant pins are usually made from shell, coral, stone, lava, glass, agate, marble, or precious gemstones
- They are set in gold or silver
- A vintage cameo will usually have a plain c-clasp on the pin at its back
- Painted cameos are typically made from porcelain
- Cameos can be identified by the direction the figure is facing—right is most common, then left, then forward

Cameo pendant pins are usually made from shell, coral, stone, lava, glass, agate, marble, or precious gemstones
Cameo pendant pins are a type of jewellery that has been popular since ancient times. They are usually made from shell, coral, stone, lava, glass, agate, marble, or precious gemstones. The carvings are typically set in gold or silver. Shell cameos are typically made from conch shells and have an orange-pink background with a white or cream foreground. They are often susceptible to cracking due to the thinness of the carved shell. Hardstone cameos are usually made from agate, onyx, or coral. Onyx is a type of hardstone that is often used in cameo jewellery. Agate is another popular choice for cameos, known for its unique beauty and timeless appeal.
Lava cameos are almost always from the Victorian era. Cameo jewellery made from glass is also quite common. These pieces are typically set in either gold or silver. Precious gemstones are also used to make cameo pendant pins, adding value and beauty to these pieces of jewellery.
Cameo pendant pins can be worn as a brooch or a pendant, depending on their size and design. They often depict a profile of a face or a mythical scene. The value of a cameo pendant pin depends on various factors, including the quality of the material used, the intricacy of the carving, and the age of the piece. Determining the age of a cameo can be challenging due to expert craftsmen copying antique pieces in the late 1700s and early 1800s. However, certain indicators, such as the type of metal used for mounting, can provide clues about the period of origin.
Cameo pendant pins have a rich history and are considered unique works of art. They have been valued for their beauty and symbolism, with some believing that cameos can ward off evil spirits and bring good luck. Today, cameo jewellery is experiencing a resurgence in popularity, with more people appreciating its timeless appeal.
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They are set in gold or silver
Cameo jewellery has been popular for centuries, with the earliest examples of this type of carved art dating back to the 3rd century BC. These miniature relief sculptures have been mounted into beautiful pieces of jewellery, often set in gold or silver.
Authentic cameos are typically crafted from natural materials such as shell, agate, onyx, ivory, coral, mother-of-pearl, lava, glass, and various gemstones. Cameos set in gold or silver are often authentic, vintage pieces. For example, an antique Victorian Mourning Cameo brooch, c.1860, is set in silver and gilded in 18kt yellow gold. It recently sold for $985 in a private sale. Another example is a vintage cameo pin pendant crafted in 14K yellow gold with a pendant loop and pin stem, allowing it to be worn either way.
Vintage cameos can also be set in gold or silver and designed to be worn as either a brooch or a pendant. One such piece is an elegant vintage cameo brooch/pendant from the 1930s-1940s. This piece is crafted in luxurious 14K gold, with a beautiful filigree and leaf design. The cameo is hand-carved from a conch shell and depicts a woman of antiquity. This piece is a true work of art and a testament to the artisan's skill and precision.
While gold and silver settings are common for authentic cameos, it is important to note that not all gold and silver cameos are genuine. For example, some laser-cut imitations may have a faint white band near the outer border. Additionally, plastic and glass cameos tend to be set in heavy base metals, making them heavier than shell and porcelain cameos. Therefore, it is essential to consider other factors when evaluating the authenticity of a cameo, such as the materials used for the cameo itself and the level of detail in the carving or painting.
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A vintage cameo will usually have a plain c-clasp on the pin at its back
Cameos are elegant pieces of jewellery that have been around since the 3rd century BC, and they are currently making a comeback. They are carved with a raised relief that often depicts a profile of a face or a mythical scene. Cameos can be made out of shell (typically conch shell), stone, lava, glass, agate, marble, coral or precious gemstones. These carvings are usually set in gold or silver.
Due to their popularity, there are many replicas in the market, and it can be challenging to spot a vintage cameo that is truly authentic. One way to identify a vintage cameo is by looking at the pin on its back. A vintage cameo will usually have a plain c-clasp on the pin at its back. The c-clasp is a type of pin where the brooch pin loops under a crescent-shaped piece of metal with no roll-over fitting to keep the end in place.
Another way to identify a vintage cameo is by examining the paint or enamel on the decorated front surface of the piece. Vintage cameos are expected to have very few scratches or chips, as the quality of paint and enamel used by vintage artisans is usually more durable than that used by modern counterfeit manufacturers. Cameos with a straight nose are usually from the Victorian era, while those with strong Roman noses are pre-1860s. Cameos with round cheeks and aquiline or Roman noses are of 19th-century origin, whereas cameos with prominent cheekbones and turned-up noses originate in the 20th century.
Additionally, you can inspect the back of the cameo by holding it face down and brushing the back with your index finger. A real shell cameo should have a matte appearance rather than a glossy one. You can also weigh the cameo in your hand to determine if it is authentic. Plastic and glass cameos tend to be set in heavy base metals, making them heavier than shell and porcelain cameos. However, weight alone is not a good indication of authenticity, as many stone cameos are naturally heavier.
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Painted cameos are typically made from porcelain
Cameos are decorative accessories that have been popular since Ancient Rome and made a huge comeback during the Victorian era. They are typically carved or painted portraits, often depicting a profile of a face, mythological scene, nature, or animals. Cameos can be made from a variety of materials, including shell, stone, lava, glass, agate, marble, coral, precious gemstones, ivory, and porcelain.
While most cameos are carved, some are painted, and these painted cameos are typically made from porcelain. Painted porcelain cameos are considered genuine antiques and are highly valued for their craftsmanship and attention to detail. The quality of the paint is an important factor in determining the value of a painted cameo, as it should be intact with minimal chipping.
Porcelain is a durable material that is less prone to chipping and cracking compared to softer materials like plastic or shell. When examining a painted cameo, it is important to look for any signs of damage, such as chips or cracks, as these can significantly impact the market value of the piece.
The weight of a cameo can also provide some indication of its materials. Porcelain cameos tend to be lighter than those made from heavier base metals like plastic and glass. However, weight alone is not a definitive indicator of authenticity, as the weight can vary depending on the thickness and size of the cameo.
In addition to the materials and craftsmanship, the subject matter depicted on a cameo can also affect its value. Women with elaborate hair or hats, children, and historical or mythical figures are often sought-after by collectors. Additionally, cameos with intricate details such as jewellery, flowers, or textured hair are usually considered more valuable.
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Cameos can be identified by the direction the figure is facing—right is most common, then left, then forward
Cameos are small sculptures or engravings of a raised relief that often depict a profile of a face or a mythical scene. They are usually made out of shell, stone, lava, glass, agate, marble, coral, or precious gemstones. Cameos can be set in either gold or silver and worn as pins, rings, or pendants.
Cameos can be valuable, and there are several ways to determine the value and authenticity of a cameo. One way is to look at the direction the figure is facing. The most common direction for a figure on a cameo to face is right, followed by left, and then forward. This may be due to the fact that people are predominantly right-handed and tend to face the figure to the left, especially in Western art. Additionally, because people tend to read from left to right, viewing a figure facing right may be more aesthetically pleasing and easier to empathize with than a figure facing left, which may feel like a confrontation.
Another way to determine the value and authenticity of a cameo is to examine the quality and condition of the piece. If the cameo is painted, the paint should be intact with minimal chipping. If the cameo is enamelled, the enamel should be in good shape with few scratches or chips. The hinge or pin on the back of the cameo can also provide clues about its age. For example, a plain "c-clasp" without a "roll over" fitting indicates that the cameo is likely an antique.
The subject matter and style of the cameo can also affect its value. Women are the most common subjects, but cameos of men or African American individuals are worth more. Cameos with elaborate hairstyles or hats, children, or historical or mythical figures are also highly prized by collectors. Additionally, cameos with Roman noses are typically from the Victorian era, while those with straight noses are pre-1860s.
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Frequently asked questions
To tell if your painted vintage cameo pendant pin is a replica, you can look at the type of pin used. Antique or vintage pieces will usually have a plain "c-clasp" on the back, with no roll-over fitting to keep the pin in place. You can also weigh the cameo in your hand—replicas made of plastic and glass tend to be heavier than authentic shell and porcelain cameos.
Authentic painted cameos are typically made from porcelain, while authentic carved cameos are made from natural materials such as shell, agate, onyx, ivory, coral, mother-of-pearl, lava, glass, and various gemstones. Cameos are usually set in gold or silver.
The value of a vintage cameo pendant pin can vary depending on various factors. Generally, cameos depicting human figures are more common, while those depicting scenes are less common and usually appraise higher. Cameos with the subject facing forward are the rarest and can be worth a lot of money. Women are the most common subjects, but cameos depicting men or African American individuals are worth more.











































